Thursday 24 September 2009

Dindugal 40km cycle ride

Earlier in the week I was asked if I wanted to join in a Sunday morning 40 kilometre cycle ride through the Indian countryside, North of Hyderabad.

Up until then, I had only seen city life in Bangalore and Hyderabad. I was eager to see what the Indian countryside had to offer, close up.

On Friday Uzzawal (great name!), one of the organizers of the cycle trip, came to my desk with a colleague Ajay Kumar.

He introduced me to Ajay and said that he lived near me in Kondapur and he would help me get to the location tomorrow.

That was a relief because I find getting around in Hyderabad always a challenge and too costly. Actually I had met Ajay twice earlier at lunch with a large group of colleagues.

From the beginning I liked Ajay, he's the strong quiet type, very kind and helpful. I was looking forward to getting to know him better.

Ajay said that he was happy to help me, and we agreed to meet at 5:45 in front of the IBM guesthouse. I was all set for the big bike ride on Sunday.

The alarm went off at 4:00. And I was already regretting that I woke up so early on a Sunday morning.

I meditated, wrote in my journal, had an early breakfast and was standing there sweating in the early morning blazing sun in front of the IBM Guesthouse, waiting for Ajay.

I started to get irritated, Ajay was 15 minutes late! I hate to be late! I wanted to call him, but I didn't have his number in my phone book.

After cursing at myself for not having his number in my phone, I started searching for any phone number of any colleague at IBM Hyderabad that may have his number. Where is he?

Just then, I saw him coming around the corner smiling and walking relaxed toward me.

After seeing his warm smile I forgot that he was late and was just relieved that he was there to help me get to the location.

Ajay, being a fan of shared auto rickshaws started immediately negotiating with various rickshaw riders to get us a good price to the junction that was about 5 kilometres away, where we were supposed to be 15 minutes ago.

We jumped into a rickshaw full of Indian men; Ajay had found us a lift for 5 rupees each!

A shared auto rickshaw means that we are not the only one in the rickshaw. The driver drives along crowded areas yelling out the name of a location and anyone that's going there, piles on top of the others already in the rickshaw and we all go there together.

It's all kind of cozy actually.

We jumped out of the rickshaw at the intersection and I turned to Ajay expecting him to boldly start leading the way. I then noticed that he was looking around with a puzzled look on his face.

It became clear that we had both proactively printed out the instructions on how to get there, neatly packed it in our backpacks as we were leaving work on Friday, laid it out so that we would not forget it, and then promptly forgot anything to do with instructions as we both left our separate homes.

After walking a few kilometres in several directions, I was starting to recognize the same buildings, cows, old men walking with canes, temples and women sweeping... from several angles.

6 phone calls, several walking sessions and 4 rickshaws later, we finally arrived at the spot, one hour late.

I was expecting people to be upset and irritated, but with typical Indian politeness, no one said anything angry to us. There was just a relaxed discussion of how it all went wrong for Ajay and I, a few serious looks in our direction, and that was that.

We all had bicycles waiting for us. They were all covered with plastic and cardboard / paper as if they were all brand new.

One thing I noticed was that I saw several people unwrapping the plastic and paper and just throwing it on the ground.

The anti-littering movement unfortunately has not had such a huge impact yet here in India.

After posing for a few pictures for the camera, we had one last discussion about safety, the route, what not to do, what to do to make sure we all returned safely, and we headed off, leaving the dust behind us.

It was already after 7:00 and I noticed that it was already warming up. But, I was so excited to be on this cycle ride that I didn't really seem to mind.

Lately when ever I'm outside in the blazing heat, I'm quite thankful for the heat because I know back home in Holland the summer is long gone and everyone has dusted off their fall jackets and are all bundled up, wishing that it were still summer.

For me, it is still summer while I'm in India, so I'm basking in the boiling heat when ever I can!

I was also having problems with the bike. In Holland I think I'm average height, but here in India, I'm a bit tall compared to the rest. My bike was way too small for me.

Have you ever seen the clowns at the circus bicycling around on some little tiny cycle? Well, that's how I felt on my 'child size' bike.

During the whole cycle ride, at every break, I was asking the mechanic, who was also along for the ride to heighten the seat and handle bar just a little higher.

The ride started out nice.

The only problem was all the the huge trucks, rickshaws, cows, dogs, people strolling towards work or whatever, children playing, carts laden with goods and produce and potholes that were all sharing the road with us.

It was still early in the morning so the traffic wasn't unbearable... yet.

There were even stretches of road where we were free of traffic for 30 second gaps.

Those gaps were breaths of fresh air.

In the above photo you see Ajay and I, enjoying the ride.

The man in the back is Surya who I think is waiting for his wife to catch up. There will be more about Surya later in this post.

Besides the traffic, it was really a nice ride. I got to talk to all the different people participating in the trip.

I spent a lot of time cycling next to Ajay who was turning out to be a rather fun guy with a great sense of humour who is really enjoyable to be around. (in his own peaceful quite way)

Every so often I'd leave Ajay's side and would tag along next to others; enjoying their company and getting know to bits about their lives.

After about 10 km's we took our first break. We all were led in yoga-like exercises and stretching. It was fun.

There was also a young boy with us, the son of Venkata Bobba, who annoyingly (he was too young and too fit) was riding effortless in the front the whole time.

During the breaks I would often talk and joke with him.

Besides being athletic, he was also quite smart. His English was almost perfect.

We cycled across beautiful countryside. There were flowers blooming wild along the way and blooming in the trees that lined the road.

As we passed the numerous small farms and villages, there were occasional pigs sleeping on the side of the road and stray dogs everywhere. There were all the small poor houses along the way with colourful people and children playing.

I remember a particular lovely field that was laced with huge boulders, palm trees and tropical plants scattered across the landscape and several peacocks strutting their stuff.

Again, I was thankful that I have this opportunity to live in such an incredible land as India.

However, I was only able to enjoy the scenery for a short while because my tranquillity was shattered as a group of huge tanker trucks came barrelling around the corner, horns blaring and tires screeching, swerving across the road, not letting off on the gas for a moment.

There was one truck swerving past the cyclists and manoeuvring around trucks coming from the other side. It's left wheels picked up a bit and it looked like it was going to tip over and go crashing into the cows, cyclists and trucks that were on all sides of the road.

But, he bounced back on all fours, seemed to actually increase his speed and I saw him zig zag his way over the top of the hill and disappearing in the distance.

If I think back home, something like that would evoke serious reactions.

Here, it's simply the way to drive!

We finally hit half way point, 20km!

After a nice long break and a group 'getting to know each other' discussion, we headed back the same way we came.

It was already getting close to 10:00 and by now the streets were packed with cars all tooting their horns as they swerved pass us at blinding speeds.

The sun also started to blaze with full glory down on our sweating bodies. The heat and distance was starting to become an ordeal and it was starting to take its toll on me. But I just pushed on and ignored any pain that I was feeling. I would not be defeated by 40km of road.

As we passed the little villages and shacks, often people would smile and wave at me. I even had some old men at temples turn and salute me as I passed, yelling something like 'good morning sir'. The farther we were out of Hyderabad the more attention I attracted.

I think some people would feel uncomfortable with all the stares, smiles, waving, people sticking their heads out of trucks yelling nice things to me. But, actually I have grown to really enjoy the attention.

Back home, I'm just another pasty white guy, not so good looking or special in any way. But, here I'm 'special' by some of the people who have never been around Europeans or Americans before.

I can imagine in some of these small villages, where people never go far away, that people only come across a 'Westerner' just a few times in their lives or '2nd hand' through their tv's and in films.

I can't help but like it. It's all meant well and the Indians seem genuinely interested.

When I see myself I can't understand why I'm so noticeable, but I will enjoy it in India while I can.

As you can see in this photo, I am now alone.

Ajay and that 'super' boy and some other very fit guys, have all left me in their tracks.

I still had plenty of people on the cycling trip around me every once in a while to talk to, even towards the end.

But, actually after 30 km, I was feeling too much pain to really have a decent discussion with anyone.

Eventually, and FINALLY, I reached the finish. If you're not used to cycling such distances, 40 km can be a big trek.

As you notice the photo below, taken at the 'finish line', my smile is mixed with exhaustion and pain. I was basically relieved that it was over.

Having said that - I'd do it again if I have the chance. It was worth it.

Another person I'd like to mention on the cycle trip, who works with the IBM Hyderabad team, is Timmapatruni Suryaprakash.

His name is simply impossible for me to fathom! I'm sure that Indian people must also find his name challenging!

Luckily he goes by his nickname, Surya!

Before coming to India, I had little contact with him and what contact I've had since I've been here has always been limited, basically because the man is so stretched with responsibilities.

He doesn't have much time over.

The reason I was amazed by him during the cycle ride is because in his life time, he had only been on a bike once before when he was visiting Holland on a business trip!

In the above photo, you can see him coming across the finish line, with an obvious look of relief on his face.

He finished towards the end, but it's amazing that he did 40 km. I think it gives a hint at his true character.

We all gathered at the end location until everyone else arrived. The last guy to show up was walking... slowly, with his bike besides him... but still he arrived. (I won't mention any names.)

We all sat around in the shade, feeling happy that we accomplished such a cycle ride over hills and valleys, in the burning sun, almost being hit by crazed truck drivers at every turn.

We all decided that we would celebrate by going out for a brunch at a near by restaurant.

It was very nice to sit in the air-conditioning, stuffing our faces with huge dosa's and other delicious breakfast foods and drinking fruit drinks and sweet lassi, joking and laughing about the strenuous bike trip and planning our next one.

After the lunch, Surya gave me and Ajay a lift back to the intersection where we were lost before the cycle trip began hours earlier.

Of course, Ajay was able to get us a shared rickshaw the rest of the way home for just 5 rupees each. He knows how to travel light and cheaply!

After we arrived in Kothaguda we parted ways. I got back to my apartment, took a long hot shower, and crawled into bed.

I remember thinking back at all the wonderful things that happened during that day... I can't remember much more, because I quickly fell sound asleep and slept like a baby for 3 hours, waking up later feeling refreshed, but very sore.

4 comments:

  1. Nice story and great pictures! I never had the chance to do this in India, I did it however in the US and Cape Town but that was not quite the experience as you just had it!

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  2. You are having a great time. I am so glad.

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  3. Hi Arvid,
    Well... It's not recommended for the safety conscious, the faint of heart or people who want to live a long life. Besides the death traffic, there is the death pollution from the death traffic. However, knowing what I know about you, I think you'd really have fun - plus, I think you're fitter than I am.
    XXX
    Sonny

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  4. Hi EydieMassiePooh,
    That is for sure! But lately, I always seem to be able to make the best of most situations. Here in India though, there's so much going on, it's more difficult not to have fun.
    XXX
    Sonny

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